3rd Sewing lesson from Sheila of the “Sewing Album”: How to make an apron… :)

Sheila highly recommends… ” Demo Halter-top Apron with lining. (I recommend when beginning a new sewing project to make a demo in old fabric or muslin until you are satisfied to proceed with good copy).”

For her 3rd sewing lesson Sheila our sewing instructor… :) shows us in pictures,  how to make a pretty apron… We suggest you have a look all the way through the pictures before attempting to sew this project, to get a better feel for what you will need…. :) If you get stuck or need help please Click Here to send us an email with your question and we will forward it to Sheila… :)

Sheila states: “When you are satisfied with demo you can make your good copy. (Take any design changes back to pattern pieces and write down the information).”
Fabric stores have a wide variety of fabrics…watch for sale days… :)
Sheila Advises: ” Once you get home it is necessary to preshrink your fabric.”
Sheila states: ” I am ready to make my good copy of the Halter Apron and have placed my pattern pieces on material keeping grain line in place. I have used tuna tins from the cupboard as weights.”
Sheila Shows Us: “Notch all information from pattern to fabric.”
“To transfer information dots from pattern to material place a pin through and mark.”
“Iron a piece of fuse to top 1″ of pocket on underside for stability”
“Fuse has been ironed on. Trim off excess.”
“Fold over one inch.”
“Stitch 1/8 along bottom”
“Serge or zig zag pocket raw edges.”
“Begin assembling the ruffle by folding a pinch and pinning into place.”
“Pin ruffle in place. Embroidery scissors for cutting those little threads.”
“Stitch ruffle at edge to secure.”
“Stitch ruffle to pocket.”
“Iron flat. At this point you could either stitch the pocket to the apron or continue to embellish.”
Tip from Sheila: “When you stitch a circle or tube always begin in the centre and work your way out to seam line so any discrepancies will fall to the seam.”
Sheila Decides to make a Rose out of the left over ruffle…
“Stitch the base of rose in place.”
“Using a tacking method attach rose to pocket. Keep embellishing away pockets are fun.If you have an embroidery machine it is nice to put your initials on pocket.Pockets give permission for anything! Thanks Franca.”
Pocket has been sewn to apron.
“Attach ruffle to apron.”
“Stitch ruffle to apron.”
“Fold ruffle inward as you attach the lining to face fabric (good side).”
“Pin lining to face fabric.”
” Apron and lining ready to be sewn.”
“With ruffles tucked inside sew lining to face fabric.”
“Turn apron to right side.”
” Lining attached to apron.” (back side)
“If you just wanted a skirt apron then attach front waistband to front skirt at centre notch and stitch in place at 1/4″ seam allowance. Do same for back waistband on lining side.”
“Fold ties in 1/2″ and press into place.”
“Fold bottom edge down.”
“Ties should be sewn last after waistband complete. At that point fold ties in half and edge stitch.”
“Prior to sewing ties fold over waistband to lining side and tuck under 1/2″. Stitch in place using machine or by hand using an invisible stitch.”
“I have attached bodice pieces at the notch points and pinned into place on front waistband ready to sew at 1/4″ seam allowance.”
“At back waistband I folded raw edge under 1/2″ and pinned into place. You could stitch this on with machine at 1/8″ from edge or hand sew using an invisible stitch.”
“This demonstrates edge stitching on ties to create a nice finished look and also gives stability since this area will be used to tie apron on and off frequently.”
“Finally attach neck ties to bodice pieces and stitch across.”
Finished Product… Sheila says… “Very nice apron for yourself or as a gift.” :)

The Sewing Room with Sheila Grant: Bed Shirt to go with P.J. Bottom’s:

Lesson 2: A top to go with the p.j. bottom’s in Lesson 1: Click Here to see the p.j. bottoms

In Sheila’s last segment she showed us how to make a pair of p.j. pants… In this segment Sheila shows us how to make a top to go with the p.j. pants using an old shirt as her template. :)

I am going to make a bedshirt for my plaid pj pants by “knocking-off” an old t-shirt. Place shirt on fabric aligned with grain. Adjust your measurements accordingly

Measure shoulder length according to your measurements (most people are 5″ but larger people are 5.5″) otherwise, it will droop off shoulder.
Notch centre front neckline.
I have created a depth of 6″ off the centre front notch with chalkline.
Then chalked a line from shoulder-neck point to 6″ depth line on both sides to create a “V” neck.
Trim out excess material for “V” neck.
But now I have decided that I want a rounded neckline so will introduce the French Curve Ruler designed to work with the female curves in dressmaking.
Simply align French Curve to the shoulder-neck point “A” and 6″ depth point “B” and find a pleasing curve on the ruler for your design and chalk the curve line in on one side only.
Fold bedshirt in half and trim out neckline accordingly. This procedure will ensure symmetry.
Now your front panel has a rounded neckline with a 6″ depth.
Pin front and back shoulders together on wrong side of fabric.
Machine stitch using 5/8″ seam allowance.
Serging seam closed.
All raw edges have been serged. Sometimes people just want a top with a rolled edge and that is what causes those wavy lines which is nice in delicate material (summer wear for example). Just look at the instruction manual for your serger to direct you on how to perform a rolled edge and follow accordingly.
One inch hem allowance pinned into place.
Stitch hemline in.
Now simply turn neckline and armholes under at one-quarter inch and take it to the machine for stitching.
1/4″ turn.
Comfortable basic bed-shirt in stretch knit (you could embellish any way you want).

The Sewing Room with Sheila Grant Lesson One:

From the Editor: Sheila Grant, a local resident has offered to share her knowledge of sewing with us. :) Sheila has happily posted instructions along with pictures on her face-book page and has generously offered to share them on SGC also.  I love to create, but at times feel frustrated because I don’t always know what I am doing. I like to sew, but I am not very good at it, so Sheila’s offer is gratefully accepted by me, and we both hope her knowledge and talent may help many others out there too. :) Here’s what Sheila has to say about her love of sewing, along with her first project for us a pair of Pyjama pants… :)  Please feel free to ask questions or make comments in the comments section below… :) These will be passed on to Sheila and we are happy to post her answers here. 

 “Sewing is my passion which ignited when my children were young and I would make them all kinds of fleece hats by tracing saucers from the cupboard. Then I would attach scarves to hats so my daughter would not lose them and sew little design embellishments using jewels for the front of her hats and mittens. I would do Christmas designs and flowers and snowmen etc. All of a sudden all her classmates wanted them and their mom’s would even offer to purchase my hats but I gave them away as gifts because they were her friends. I used to stay up till 1pm finishing off Halloween costumes for their parties the next day and later, donated about fifty aprons to the local public school for their Healthy Snack Program ran by my friend Ann. At first we had no material so I improvised and asked the ladies to donated unused bedsheets for the program. It was a success and there they were running around the school serving healthy snacks in my bedsheet aprons. Later when a huge supply of cotton weave in various colours and designs was donated, the ladies still preferred to wear my bedsheet aprons because they were not afraid to get them dirty…lol Not long after I joined my local college for Sewing and Pattern Making and have been at it ever since. I still have some advanced courses to take but that will come in time and maybe costume design too. I love creating! I hope to inspire anyone who loves sewing to try these simple lessons I have provided.

Prior to cutting pattern piece make sure that your raw edges match up to the design evenly so that your seams join evenly.
Measuring grain line consecutively to align with raw edge will cause the gravitational line to pull evenly from the hip area to floor.You want those pants to flow nicely and this is the stage to cause that to happen.
Grain line consistent with raw edge. In this case it was approximately 6″. From top to bottom evenly.
So now that back pant panel has been cut I have pinned the centre back seam to crotch point and will now sew a 5/8 inch seam allowance.
5/8 inch seam allowance.
I am doing a closed seam and now serging the raw edge closed.
This is a closed seam. Notice I smoothed and blended the point into a smooth transition at waist band.
Notice how my centre back seam matches the plaid together nicely. This was the very first stage prior to cutting pattern piece where I matched up the raw edges (preparation is key in sewing).
After sewing inside seam and outside seam together of front and back pattern, make sure that leg length is even.
Trim off uneven bit at leg length and then you are set to measure hem allowance.
I am using 1.5 inch hem allowance per industry standard. But first you have to serge the raw edge. (If you don’t have a serger I recommend you get one but a zig zag would be ok to finish edges).
Serge raw edge of waist and I am using a 1.5 inch pocket to encase a one inch woven non-roll elastic waistband.
This is a stop sign used to signal a stop during the sewing. In this case I need to stop approximately two inches either side of front centre seam so I can insert the waistband.
Stopping here.
I recommend using a non-roll elastic band so it stays secure in the waist pocket for comfort. Place a large safety pin at the top of band and get ready to run it through the waist pocket.
Done. Now close safety pin and go try on your new pants and adjust the measurement around the waist for comfort.
Once measurement establised stitch the band closed. I usually just stitch up and down and across to secure this are.
Now that band has been stitched closed sew the centre front pocket shut.
I like to stitch an X on centre back seam so that you know which is the back since I do not use labels.
Then I go around to all the seams and stitch vertically over top just to secure the band further from rolling.
Viola… A comfy pair of Pj bottoms for you.. :)